Foremost, it’s absolutely crucial that in order to be authentic they must have an assortment of red and white wine to perfectly pair with each course. Check.

Second, true Italian bistros will serve warm, home-made bread. And if they’re really top of the notch, white, wheat, sour and sometimes rye in pieces small enough to grab with one hand, but big enough to break into dip-able, drip-able, smear-able chunks. Just thinking about it is making me drool. Check and check.

Finally, to really enjoy said bread is with a side of well aged balsamic vinegar surrounded by a generous pool of extra virgin olive oil. Check.

As for the appetizers, main course and dessert; I have mixed feelings. The chicken itself was cooked to perfection; moist inside and lightly crisped skin. The greens however, soggy from being overly glazed in olive oil. I did appreciate the tangy slices of parmesan on top. Overall, nothing worthy of praise (especially not for that price).Next came the main courses: tomato, squash, olive and mushroom spaghettini and a classic Margherita pizza (with a not so classic crust). The pasta was beautifully plated, with bold punches of tomato in a perfectly textured ragu sauce. Kudos for not over-cooking the vegetables, but it could have been better with a drizzle of EVOO to further enhance the flavors. The portion size was also disappointing, perhaps enough for a petite Korean girl to be satisfied with, but definitely not enough for my stomach to feel any denser after a 2 hour long meal.  From the char/burn marks, I believe the pizza was baked in a traditional wood burning oven. On the plate, everything looked fine. Then again, the flavors didn’t quite come together and lacked that little something (perhaps a touch of love). Even the crust was ho-hum at best. Finally, we ordered the dessert of the day. The itty bitty, dessert of coconut ice-cream atop a mango, peach and mandarin fruit salad with the tiniest macaroon I have ever laid eyes on. No joke, the picture above is the actual size. I couldn’t care less that the ice-cream was made in-house. For 8,000won, it would have been better getting 6 sundae’s at McDonalds. On the flip side, the open windows, white tableclothes and comfortable yet luxurious interior are impeccably well kept with cute waiters & waitresses bustling back and forth to attend to your every call. It’s definitely a best for impressing a date.

Anyways, it’s not all bad. For instance, I appreciate the heel friendly renovations to the sidewalk in front of Helios, the nearby GS minimart where thrifty foreigners camp out and get drunk and a wider variety of all-you-can-eat meat buffets (Meatpacker’s, anyone?). And although I have yet to go to their new location (RIP Mü Bar), I’ve heard some positive comments about All That Jazz. But most of all, I love wine and restaurants that know how to pair it with savory, wholesome food.The newly opened sparkling pub; Bubble Tree does just that and more. Here, you can choose from hearty portions of fresh seafood, pasta, pizza and salad fusions matched with the perfect reds, whites, champagnes and sparklers. Their website even provides a little history into the world of wine and true to its form photographs of their menu. Another unique touch is the music documentary screening events.One can easily get distracted by all the other pretty lights, but keep your eyes peeled. Nestled between BricX and Le Saint Ex Bistro (two of my other veteran favorites), the warm, cozy, polished interior behind blue painted tilt & slide windows beckons you. I was surprised to find this place totally empty at 6PM on a Saturday, especially when everywhere else was pretty much packed. However, don’t let it fool you.

The food is good. The wine recommendations by a knowledgeable waiter, even better. In detail, the two chicken dishes couldn’t be more different.Toasted Texas Wings over a bed of salad; spicy, tangy, moist and without the slightest hint of being over or under-cooked.

And my new favorite, Chicken Cordon Bleu; with another beautifully balsamic-dressed salad. The chicken is filled with spinach, cheese and ham then rolled before popping it into the oven. It’s crispy on the outside, but again moist and packed with flavor. Big enough for me to skip the next meal. I could seriously eat this everyday.

If I haven’t convinced you yet, the selection of wines alone is worth considering a visit. So if you’re like me and find yourself hating the changes taking place, try to look on the flip-side. Take advantage of all the more choices available rather than think about how Koreans businesses are mooching off of Itaewon’s more generous (if not wanton) customers.

Thus after you’ve managed to take focus away from stuffing your face full of layers upon layers of frozen yogurt balancing the rich, home-made green tea ice-cream beckoning from underneath; you begin to notice the equally grandeur interior.

Deep woods and lux fabrics give this place a classy, European touch in harmony with the comfy sofas that one could easily fall into, as did my companion for the evening.

Rather than a messy pile of outdated magazines, timeless artwork encased in bold framing and books are neatly stacked atop shelves all throughout the first and second floor of the cafe. Another reminder of home (hinting that there’s really no need to leave any time soon) is their complimentary blankets.

However what really threw in the towel was the immaculate service and attention to detail. Without having even asked, about an hour into our stay a waitress came walking over with two cups of piping hot earl grey tea. “Service?” I asked. “Yes, service,” she said with a smile.

So out of 5, I give this place 4.5 stars. It’s a great place to settle after a long day of shopping and even better for someone looking to impress their date (that won’t break the bank), if you get my message.

*Cafe Coin is well-known among Korean and savvy Japanese customers for their hand-drip coffee and unique twist on bingsu (ice-shavings with red-beans and sweetened milk). There are two locations, the first branch near the alley of Guess and Lacoste stores and the second on the same street as Metro Hotel, all within blocks of Noon Square. Tel. 02-754-2353. Coffee is priced under 10,000 along with deserts and other beverages mostly between 10,000-20,000won range.

Why the mask?

If you’re going to do something, do it BIG.

That was the impression I was left with at The 3rd Annual Ink Bomb International Tattoo Convention at Platoon Kunsthalle. Why?

First off, the ratio of young and old Koreans who had full-body work was paramount in comparison to the foreigners with their seemingly insignificant patches.

Second, the Korean staff were way to chill. What they lacked in wrinkles, they made up for in their wise, knowing [somewhat creepy] eyes.

Third, all the important people seemed to know each other. Perhaps a secret cult of bored, filthy rich kids that could care less about making a good impression.

Hmm…something smelled fishy. Rumor has it that [real] Korean gangs had worked their not so subtle, magic hands to get the ball rolling on this years exhibition.

see the guy in a speedo?

I can see you.

Hence, this girl and a bunch of others proudly displaying their half naked bodies.

eye-popping art

Thus, I wasn’t sure who, what or how I should have felt.

Someone you might want to avoid messing with.

Should I have been scared out of my Docs that opposing gang members would start a brawl any second?

Nah, they look pretty harmless.

Ecstatic to see the professionals [ie licensed and dead ready to ink] do their thing all the way from Japan, New York, etc?

touch-ups? okay

Or pleasantly surprised at the discovery of some local artists work and their not so inflated egos.

Super Ultra Great Ink booth

Like my absolutely favorite and first choice [if I was to reconsider getting another tat], Super Ultra Great Ink Shop in Ilsan.

They must've been scared, too.

The Rocktigers weren’t at their best performance, but as short as the set was, it was nice to hear some live rockabilly music. Though as usual, the foreigners were the ones dancing and shaking along while most Koreans stared stiff.

All in all, I came back with a whole new perspective of Asia’s ink culture. 75% positive, 20% still negative and 5% not quite sure.

Wish it was me... <3

It’ll take a while for the itch to get another tattoo wears off.

]]> http://backtoseoul.wordpress.com/2011/05/25/vivid-impressions/feed/ 0 A Gyopo CatClaw Tattoo-Z view from the second floor yes, i'm a bad girl obvious what the title should be... tattoo mania harmful? chill the real thing Rocktigers wow http://backtoseoul.wordpress.com/2011/04/25/caffeine-truck-coffee-cafe-jeju-island/ http://backtoseoul.wordpress.com/2011/04/25/caffeine-truck-coffee-cafe-jeju-island/#comments Mon, 25 Apr 2011 10:42:52 +0000 . http://backtoseoul.wordpress.com/?p=1138 ]]> After first hearing about a peculiar coffee shop from a fellow racer’s girlfriend (a cute couple I might add), I imagined sipping its sweet, aromatic coffee as a soft breeze wafted my hair and body into heavenly contentment.

One can easily spot this place – a bright, cruelly painted rainbow against the rusty off-white facade on this ancient SUV; boasted as the only one in Korea by it’s owner, a former businessman from Seoul. I can’t remember the model, but it was said to be passed down from a previous owner affiliated with some Korean newspaper and was refurbished with a built-in, wooden bench directly behind the drivers seat. Inclusive to the interior were other major appliances – a large pancake grill, microwave, fridge and espresso machine with enough room leftover to comfortably seat perhaps 6 to 8 additional passengers. There was only one thing to do; hop in the welcome wagon!

I ordered an ice americano and small talked with the now cheerful owner as he disclosed past stories of struggle, failed businesses and the like which ultimately lured him to the serene shores of Jeju Island. In return for my open ears, he continued to generously pour one cup after the other.

Likewise, customers unceasingly arrived in their lazy cars, happily interrupting to what may have looked to them like two old friends in intimate conversation. Some didn’t seem to mind that he took great care and time perfecting each order, but as you may already know, most busy 빨리 (if not rude) Koreans didn’t hesitate to ask more than once how much longer it would take. I couldn’t help but watch as he passionately poured perfect cups of hot chocolate (whip cream and all), swirled even lines of ketchup atop lightly crisped egg toast and my all-time favorite; labored pumps of milk foam poured over his star signature cafe lattes. Before I knew it, the wind had shifted in earnesty of the setting sun. I thought of what it would be like to leave everything and everyone behind, to start on a fresh, clean slate and without the ever-looming financial burden. Oh wait, I kind of did that already. Well sort of, anyway.

Nearly an hour later, I reluctantly stepped out of the cafe, exchanged goodbyes and promised to return another day. As of now, I’m not sure if that promise can be kept, but I know that it wouldn’t be long before someone else would appreciate the treasures within this little rainbow.

Cycling to Caffeine took about 30 minutes from my hotel in Jeju City – 5 minutes after the restaurant/hotel in the shape of a UFO on Aewol Road 애월해안도로.

Saw some other cool things along the way as well. Later that evening, the KUMF scheduled to host a closing ceremony, which meant only one thing. Booze. Lots of it. I wasn’t looking forward to drunken debauchery but tagged along anyway. Boy was I glad. Jeju’s acclaimed; Halla Makkoli and soju were absolutely delicious. The stuff in Seoul couldn’t compare to the clean, crisp, fresh taste.After just 2 cups and 2 shots, my face was the usual beet red. The military soup: 부대찌개 wasn’t bad either, but alas, I was too drunk and couldn’t imagine crawling to what looked to be a long night of more drinking, singing and debauchery. Even though I knew it was somewhat rude, I shyly excused myself and slipped away in a taxi. Falling onto the hotel’s crisp, white sheets, I felt warmer and happier than I had been in a long time.

Too bad everything would have to return back normal, come morning. Until next time.

It was too late to turn back now, I was on my way again, to participate in the 100km ultra.

I can’t count the number of times people have asked me why all the running. Some people even say I’m crazy, but in truth, it’s like anything else I feel passionate about. Among other things, I run in order to peel off the days stress, feel accomplished and self-worth. I also run so that I can eat whatever I want without gaining weight…which doesn’t really work after the second can of peanuts or tteokbokki, but oh well.

Anyhow, I made it just in time to grab a sandwich before boarding Jinair and woke up to slightly improved weather. Even though check-in wasn’t until 2PM, I spent time lying in a steamy, relaxing bath and enjoyed a healthy salad buffet at the hotel’s main floor restaurant as other attendees slowly flooded in.

Being away from Seoul was a nice change of pace, a pace that would likely be shattered after my run tomorrow, however.

Strolled for a few around the neighborhood, stopped by E-Mart for some munchies and checked-in room 325 (pretty swanky, huh?).

Much later, around 11pm to be exact, I would awake to the sound of someone pounding at the door. I must’ve been fast asleep as my designated bunkmate informs – her first attempt around 9ish failed and left her with only one choice; take up time by shopping at E-mart, too.

I opened the door to an exhausted and nervous 언니. This would be her first ultra and already things were starting off-course. My bad. I guess we’ll just have to see what happens, tomorrow.

Not taking advantage of maximum sunlight hours = most runners finishing after dusk and as a result = reduced visibility of and for runners. Not to mention becoming a victim of hypothermia. 

Anyhow, sufficient sleep, a simple breakfast of green porridge with side dishes and an 800 mg mega ibuprofen pill later, I was more than ready to start running. But of course, first some obligatory shots with total strangers (the 2 Korean women on the left) in and near the ladies restroom (?!)

With a half smirk, smile and ‘please hurry up before I chatter my teeth to bits!’ sort of face, we waited at the starting point in anticipation.

Countdown: 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, to, 1 – AND WE’RE OFF!!!

Compared to the prior year, the weather was significantly chillier – a watered down, less stunning view of spring flowers in bright shades of yellow, deep green, white and pinks. There didn’t seem to be a problem with breathtaking winds however…catching me off guard several times; blowing straight at me with sheer force that I couldn’t help but return the favor with my own spats of discourse. I prayed for the wind to shift directions and nudge from behind. (A few times it worked!) Then as quickly as it came, things would subside to a calm landscape and back again. Thank Goodness.

Check points were set up at the same locations as last year, with minor changes. One omssion being the checkpoint between 90 and 100kms; previously placed dangerously close to the main street and unnoticeable unless people knew to cut across a busy 3 laner at that very Y intersection. (Again, what were they thinking!) The more important issue though is CHOCO PIES. I never understood why Korean marathons liked to serve Choco Pies.

Talk about death by Choco Pie. Not to mention Pocari Sweat. Why not supply Power Bars, Powerade or Gatorade  and bypass the choke-able, dense, dangerously sweet factors altogether? I guess we’ll never know. If you do, please feel free to leave a comment! But enough with all the negativity…let’s take a step back to admire this beautiful view!

In any case, running the 100km for the second year in a row, memories resurfaced of places seen but long forgotten (see the day after for more details). Indeed, as the sun faded, my hazy delight slowly faded with it…8PM (less than 1/5 left to go)…

Lights out. No reflective gear, nor working flash. I had forgotten to replace the batteries. YIKES.

By about 90kms into the race, the cold had made its way, creeping ever so sneakily under my skin, muscles and at last, made ready for its fatal blow. So close yet so far away. But then, it’s as if God himself was watching over me and sent his guardian angel to light the way; A man who had slowly caught up and could have easily passed by without a second glance. A man running the 200km trail while I a mere 100kms, was already doubting my completion. I felt ashamed.

He told me quite logically, If I slowed down, I would never be able to recover. I was touched by his humanity and consideration. I hastened my steps. 8 kilomters left. I sped up even faster. 7 kilometers. The man and his light retreated. 6 became 5, then 4, 3, I could see the roof of the stadium up ahead. I was almost there. I sprinted towards the finish line.

12 hours and 53 minutes later, it was over. Without a doubt, God had stretched out a helping for a second time.

It’s not to say I hate Itaewon, no wait, I do… Ok, it’s more of a love-hate relationship. But anyhow, knowing the craziness that applies i.e.

excess consumption of alcohol = sweaty men with increased testosterone + (bruising of/elevating) egos = high chance of breaking out in violence …

I was glad that I had a prior engagement to help out with V-Day’s live b-boy and hip-hop event in Hongdae.

And what a success! At first, organizers were worried that only a few people would show up but shortly after 11pm, a lively crowd of about 50-100 gathered around the main stage. The Bronx Bboys were the first to go, and had even choreographed a special dance set just for V-Day.We danced, drank and even sang a little, but the real icing on the cake would have to be being surrounded by such caring, down-to-earth, amazing people. Although the party is over, the old and new friends I have connected with will transcend. It is their beauty and contribution that runs deep within the roots of true humanitarianism.